Sewing a lapel collar demands precision, but the process becomes straightforward when broken into deliberate steps. This guide focuses on creating a structured, tailored collar that lies smoothly against the garment, providing both aesthetic polish and lasting durability. Mastering this technique elevates a simple project into a refined, professional-quality finish.
Understanding Lapel Collar Construction
A lapel collar is essentially a frame for the lapel itself, constructed from two primary components: the collar stand and the lapel. The collar stand sits flat against the garment neckline, while the lapel rolls outward, creating the visible edge. The success of the final piece hinges on the accurate stitching of these elements together at the collar band, where the roll line is established.
Essential Tools and Materials
Gather precise tools to ensure accuracy and clean results before starting. The foundation requires a well-fitted pattern, medium-weight interfacing for the collar stand, and a slightly lighter weight interfacing for the lapel to allow for natural rolling. You will also need a sharp pair of dressmaking shears, fine pins or wonder clips, a marking tool such as a fabric pencil or chalk, and a reliable sewing machine equipped with a sharp needle.
Pattern for lapel collar
Medium-weight fusible interfacing
Light-weight non-fusible interfacing
Sharp shears and pins
Fabric pencil or chalk
Sewing machine with appropriate needle
Preparing the Pattern and Interfacing
Begin by carefully cutting out the collar stand and lapel pieces from your chosen pattern, adding any necessary seam allowances if working from a block. Interface the collar stand piece with medium-weight fusible interfacing to provide structure and prevent stretching. For the lapel, interface the underside with light-weight interfacing, ensuring the fusible area stops short of the outer edge to maintain flexibility for the roll. Press all pieces meticulously, ensuring the interfacing is securely bonded without shifting.
Step-by-Step Sewing Process
Start by placing the interfaced collar stand and lapel pieces right sides together, aligning the neck seam and outer edge precisely. Stitch the outer edge and the neck seam using a small, consistent seam allowance, typically around 1.5 cm or 5/8 inch. Grade the seam allowances by trimming the lapel allowance slightly shorter than the stand allowance, which reduces bulk and allows the stand to roll more naturally. Clip the curve at the collar point carefully, taking care not to cut through the stitching.
Forming the Collar Roll
Turn the assembled collar right side out, using a point turner or the blunt end of a small brush to gently ease out the collar point. Press the collar thoroughly, focusing on rolling the lapel edge to reveal the under-stitched seam on the inside. This under-stitching, secured close to the inner edge of the lapel, is what holds the roll in place. The goal is a smooth, continuous curve where the stand supports the lapel without any puckering or looseness.
Attaching the Collar to the Garment
Secure the collar to the garment neckline by pinning the raw edges of the collar stand to the garment's seam allowance, right sides together. Distribute any ease evenly and stitch in place, ensuring the neckline curve matches the collar's shape. Finally, bring the lapel to the front, enclosing the seam allowance of the collar stand, and stitch in place from the underarm seam to the outer edge, completing the frame and defining the lapel's final roll and silhouette.
